muikku

One of Julia’s favorite characters. We stumbled upon a sort of art show of hand crafted Mikku collector dolls from various years. The show was crowded with people, mostly young men, taking pictures of the dolls. Julia has watched videos of Muikku for a long time. This year is the 16th year of the character and as the character is supposed to be 16, this was a big event.

From the internet: “Her name is from the Japanese characters for first, sound, and future, so her name means “first sound from the future.” According to her backstory, Hatsune Miku comes from a not-so-distant future where music was lost. She emerged as a 16-year-old singing android who reintroduced the skills to the world.”

David Hockney

David Hockney Show at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo. I wanted to take pictures of it all but it was not allowed for most of the show. Much of the work is only a few years old, done during Covid time using a iPad and printed out in panels mounted along a very long continuous wall.

food

The food is wonderful–feeding body and soul. I’m sure there is some exceptions somewhere here but we have not found them yet. We have not been able together into our neighborhood sushi restaurants for supper. They are full or ready to close when we are ready to eat. We will try harder. Ramen, however, is an easy find.

Ou first ramen restaurant:

And more last night:

My food photography needs work. If I promise myself to post more, I may get better.

dualities

This is a city of such contrasts.  All cities, all places are but perhaps because this time has been so multi-sided for me, the contrasts I see here are particularly tender and touching. 

This small cemetery, tucked into a corner of Yanaka was surrounded by a wall with an open gate.Some of the graves were very old, some from earlier this year. A few had an announcement tied onto the stone which said that it was suspected that this grave had been abandoned and the upkeep was unpaid. If someone did not come forward to claim the space, the remains buried would be dug up and respectfully burned, and the space made available to another family. I wonder if this was just the reality of a city where all real estate is valuable.

bumps in the road

I can’t work this into a chatty post. I can’t make light of it. No pictures can tell the story. I have believed firmly that traveling with Julia was incredibly beneficial. Of course, we have not done any since moving to Boston, but this was going to be doing something we loved together again. And possibly better because Ed was with us.

We’ve hit some bumps, some limits and a bunch of my assumptions have been dashed.  We had a very hard 24+ hours over the last day and a half.  Julia was angry and lashed out at us.  She had melt downs in public and was very difficult to handle. She cursed and swore and talked under her breath until she was raging. She could not be brought down to a calm and rational state.  She didn’t want to be.

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shibuya scramble crossing

Shibuya Scramble Crossing  stops vehicles in all directions to allow pedestrians to inundate the entire intersection. Large video screens mounted on nearby buildings overlook the crossing, as well as many static advertising signs. Honestly, it is just about a recognizably large amount of people crossing the street at one time and I didn’t expect to be impressed. However, to look at it from above and then walk in it (twice) felt magical. It was participating in some daily ritual that blessed or cursed the events of the day. It was being a molecule in the veins or arteries of a huge body get where it needed to go. It would lose its magic if it was a crossing on the way to work every day but the first time . . . Ah!

anime spotting

Almost no matter where we have been in the city, pictures and ads pop up that are of interest to the anime lover. Julia has asked me to take quite a few pictures. I had also read that everything in Tokyo has a face and a cuteness and we see that all the time. Drawings in ketchup on an omelet and pastry named after pets. All of this without going into the heavy anime sections of the city. Here are a few.

first morning in Tokyo

Breakfast at Higurashi Garden, bakery with a book store behind it.

It was delicious. The little dog was full of chocolate, made and named in honor of the owner’s dog, and the eggplant tart was to die for. Plus ice coffee for me and fresh lemonade for Julia and Ed. We are ready to explore.