Churches and ponies

Duomo of Siena
Duomo of Siena

There are churches that are overwhelming or impressive or quiet and holy. I wanted to write about Siena’s Duomo, Romanesque-gothic and striped inside and out, but before I had the chance, we are in Florence and in that city’s duomo. A comparison is striking although the both were built as shows of powerful cities. I forgot that there is no internal foyer in Siena. You step through the doors and you are engulfed, enmeshed, given over to the overstimulation that is that church. There is no calm surface to rest eyes-wall, ceiling, floor all cry out for attention. I find it hard to focus, almost hard to breathe. It is like drinking far too much, like an intense and almost painful love at first sight, like the dessert of an already over-rich meal that cannot be refused. Is this what it feels like to be unable to filter priorities? Is this an autistic-like experience for the typically minded? It is glorious and debilitating. I don’t know if anyone else feels thee same way about the place. I felt it 30 years ago and again two days ago. I don’t think I could comfortably worship a deity or sit in meditation in that place but it makes an impression like nothing else. I love it and find it amazingly uncomfortable.

We did a tour inside the Duomo has only existed for three years. We were escorted up a winding stairway that is concealed behind a painted door at the main entrance to the Duomo. This was a passage once reserved for those who worked on the building and decorations. We walked high over the floor between the outside and inside walls and were able to look at both the inside of the church and the roofs of Siena at a few points. Both views were breath taking. Seeing the church from so high above put the decoration in context for me. It also removed me a little from the stimulation of the surround of the Duomo and I could see.

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more than one day in Tuscany

imageWithout any prodding now, I am ordering a glass of wine with lunch. Red in Tuscany. Red is what is made here and it is what the house wine is. And I am still not getting tired afterwards. What is different about Italian wine in Italy. Or perhaps it is me.

Today has a completely different feel from yesterday. Today, we slept in, had eggs for breakfast and then drove to Bagno Vignoni to take the waters. Is that the correct verb? We arrive just after noon. The web site said the particular place we want to go was closed from noon to 1 but on sight the attendant says from noon to 2 even though there is a sign that says until 1:30. This is a part of the character of Italian travel that can be very frustrating to the uninitiated. I vividly remember fighting it 30 years and then giving up. Absolutely no reason to even mention the sign or the online information now. There is nothing to do but find a restaurant, order pizza and a glass of wine and get more change for the parking meter. Yes, even in romantic Tuscany you need to feed the meter. Continue reading

Podere Isabella

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Sitting on the back terrace of Podere Isabella watching the sun set and doing Julia’s math, nonfiction exercise and reading book, I breath after some crabbiness and an almost evening nap. We have one more evening to enjoy the beauty and quiet of the place. A few breaths more. Perhaps another nap on the terrace. It is a wonder to spend the time here. The generous gift of a school friend with whom I had not been in touch since college. Her trust that I could keep her house even without her being here. And we bathe in the beauty of this undeserved gift or reward. Or a simple gesture of kinship.

The beauty–to open shuttered doors each morning and lock up them at the end of the day. To rattle around more space than we need. Alone and quiet. Or alone and noisy. Julia and I are not using much of the house. Our bedroom and bath of course, but we eat in the large kitchen with its well worn wood table and good drawing light. We sat for one meal in the lovely dining room, but in the afternoon Julia wants to swim, in the evening we’ve eating meals on the back terrace to watch sunsets and morning tea is cozier in the kitchen. The divided living room would be wonderful for a gathering but the two of us are lost in it and staying out removes the temptation to turn on the media players. We rattle around here, and after today in a Siena that was full to the brim with serious tours and tourists the ability to freely move from room to room is cold water to a parched mouth.

I sit to begin my day. No pressing reservations or train schedule. Nothing important to see today. Just another small hill town, more good exercise for our calves and a recommended restaurant. I am almost comfortable driving the back roads, mostly gravel and unsaved and the narrow two lane blacktop roads. I am comfortable with my few Italian words and the kindness of those who try to make me understand a few more. More swash buckling touring begins again tomorrow but for today . . .

Pienza

imageWe are stopping for lunch at a recommended restaurant that is supposed to have very good meat. La bandita. We have not eaten much meat apart from what has been in a few sauces and the waiter recommends “hamburger” when I ask him what is best. When I repeat “hamburger” with a big question, he says “oh, madam, it is wonderful!” So that is what I order.

We have passed the morning in Pienza, a small walled city sitting on a hill. It was an ancient town reconstructed in the 1400’s by the then Pope Pius II. Pius was a great humanist who hired a bevy of architects and artisans to transform his humble town into a great renaissance city. It is still a jewel of a city which is now a tourist destination. There is no trains and few buses here and so the tourists are those who have rented cars or come in small vans. So, fewer pack backer and more couples of that certain age. The size of the streets begin at small and go down from there. Indeed, the via del amore has hardly enough to room for lovers to walk hand in hand although the that may be the point.

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behind a wheel

Po, the car.
Po, the car.

Today is very bright and the sky blue. Our pictures coming walking to Vernazza would sport a specular sky today, but I am quite happy with our grey day and muted memories from yesterday. My muscle memory is quite vivid. At the van stop at the top of Corneglia, a Japanese woman asks about trains and buses, and where they can walk from the top of this town and I give her the information confidently. I am a native of 42 hours. We eat in the little cafe I looked for yesterday–pan i vin– excellent cappuccino, focaccia i mozzarella and pan chocolate. And a very friendly barman.

We are picking up a rental car in La Spezia and I am nervous. For all of my bravado about wanting to drive in italy, I am terrified. When I announced so very bravely that I wanted to drive in Italy and planned part of this trip around where I would have to drive to what I really may have meant was that I wanted to ‘ride’ around Italy with some braver or more experienced soul behind the wheel. I am pretty sure of myself on buses and trains and if I could have, I would have abandoned this crazy idea.

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Walking to Vernazza

Corniglia after sunset
Corniglia after sunset

I feel a bit of the crazed tourist this morning. We are in Cinque Terre for two short days and for me to be acclimated to a place it takes at least that amount of time. There is is no Silvia to ease my way and provide ideas and directions, not to mention understand which restaurants are closed on any day. Nothing seems as clear as described in guide books and online and I have a mission today–the hike to Vernazza.

The cafe I planned to go to breakfast was closed but a gelato seller recommends somewhere to have coffee and we go for cafe con leche and croissant con jelly. Caffeine plus the sound of waves beating on rocks adjusts my mood. We walked down the 377 steps to buy a hiking ticket only to find out that the path to Vernazza is officially close for some “small Renovation.” We can hike the path without a ticket at our own risk. But the path begins at the top of the 377 steps and so we wait for a van to take us up to town again.

Slowly, I let go of my grand plans and accept the adventure of the day. So many lessons in letting go. As we walked, I never figure out where the renovation is taking place. Some of the trail is rocky and feels risky but none is roped off and none of it appears to be particularly treacherous. Continue reading