We spent a long morning, not as hot as many of the ones that came before but still sweaty hot, at the Temple of Literature, in Vietnamese, Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam. This was my favorite place 22 years ago when I came with my friend, Jennifer, to adopt her daughter. And it remains a favorite—now, with an excellent audio tour. It is a place of calm and peace in the middle of the chaos of Ha Noi.
Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam was founded in 1070 as a temple to worship Confucius. A short 6 years later the next Emperor established the Imperial Academy on the Temple grounds as a royal school for nobles, and bureaucrats. Other students were accepted based on competitive exams as a way of filling the civil service. It seems it didn’t take long for the prestigious academy to diversify their student body. I wonder if those nobles and bureaucrats didn’t get bored of their own company. Maybe they just needed some smart guys. The last exam took place around 1919. Of course, candidates were only considered if they were male and sons of landowners, sons of singers, performers and criminals were not allowed into the exam. The school was strict and too many violations of the behavior code could result in expulsion or loss of a head.
For all its restrictions, Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam is a magical place of learning, a place that has valued education and right living for more than a thousand years and for that I love it.


















